Boot Cuff Sizes S-M (L-XL)
Made on an LK 150
Any DK/sport weight yarn, or coned machine knitting yarn of approximately 3/11 or 3/12 weight that will knit to gauge.
Tension 4, or whatever is necessary to obtain gauge
Gauge: 22 sts, 30 rows =10cm (5 1/2 sts, 7 1/2 rows =1″) in stockinet stitch
NOTE: The boot cuff is knitted in ribbing and lace, but since many people find it difficult to measure gauge in either ribbing or lace, we are using a standard gauge swatch in plain knitting, just as per the instructions in the machine manual. If you are able to match this gauge, your cuffs should be fine.
Bring forward 62 (72) needles. Arrange for K1, P1 ribbing. Work cast on at TR (tightest setting on the dial). Change tension to 3. Work 40 rows ribbing, ending with carriage on right.
Change to T4. Work 20 rows in lace pattern (see chart and instructions below) ending with carriage on Right. Work 4 rows garter stitch (2 ridges.) T 8. Knit 1 row to the left, and latch off as follows: *Take first stitch off onto the latch tool and slide it down behind the latch. Take next stitch off the needle into the hook of the latch tool and pull it through the stitch that is behind the latch; slide this new stitch down behind the latch. Repeat from *. You will be pulling stitches through each other all along the top edge. When you reach the last stitch, clip yarn, leaving about 16″ for seaming. Pull this yarn tail through the last stitch to fasten off.
These may easily be lengthened so they are more like leg warmers; simply knit ribbing until as long as desired.
Depending on the yarn used, you might like to block the lace cuff at this point, since it’s easier to do this before seaming. CAUTION: Many modern man-made yarns cannot be steamed; it “kills” the fabric. Also, no matter the fiber, do not block the ribbing section.
Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail and sew seam. Boot cuffs may be worn with the top extending up the leg, or folded down over the top of the boot. If you will wear them with the top up, sew a continuous seam with seam allowances on the wrong side. If you plan to wear them with the lace cuff folded down, you might like to reverse the seam at the beginning of the ribbing. I usually don’t bother with this; the seam is hidden inside the boot, so even though it is on the outside of the fabric, it really doesn’t show.
If you know how to sew one of the flatter seams, like one of those we now call a “Bickford” seam, this would be a better technique for the ribbing section. If you find this difficult, try overcasting or whip stitching the edges together. You can also use the mattress stitch method, but sew through the middle of the edge stitches (half a stitch from the edge) rather than a full stitch in from the edge as we usually do.
Work in yarn ends.
This is a simple 10-stitch, 2-row repeat, made by using the 2-prong transfer tool. 2 extra stitches are allowed for mattress stitch seaming in the cuff section. You will actually have 4 plain stitches on the left edge, and 3 on the right edge of the cuff.
Hint: you may find it easier to mark the center needle of each repeat; counting from the left edge, this will be the 7th, 17th, 27th, 37th, 47th, 57th, and for size L-XL, 67th needle.
*With the 2-prong transfer tool, remove the 2sts just to the left of the center stitch, move them over 1 needle to the right, and rehang; there are now 2 sts on the center needle, and the second needle to the left of center is empty. Remove the 2sts just to the right of the center stitch, move them over 1 needle to the left, and rehang; there are now 3 sts on the center needle, and the second needle to the right of center is empty. Repeat from * across. Knit 2 rows.
Repeat these 2 rows, transferring lace stitches every other row
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