This is often all that is needed for a simple band or edging. This technique works best on raglan and V neck edges that have been shaped with fully fashioned decreases. That is, the actual decrease is inwards a stitch or two from the edge.
This is the back raglan armhole of a baby sweater. Notice how the fabric curls inwards to the purl side. In a larger garment the curl is much greater.
This is the right (public) side of the armhole after the edging has been applied. This will be a placket; the neck edge will not pullover the baby's head, so I am creating a narrow band that reaches to the armhole.
This is the wrong (inside) of the raglan. This garment has not been steamed or blocked in any way, yet the garment does not curl to the inside.
Hold the raglan or V neck with purl side facing you, knit side toward the machine. You will need to pick up approximately 3 stitches every 4 rows. This varies a little, depending on your yarn and gauge, so you may need a few more stitches, or a few less. Too many stitches causes the edge to buckle and bulge; too few causes it to pucker and draw in. It is a good idea to practice this first. If you still have the gauge swatch, pick up stitches along a side edge (not the cast on or bound off ends) to check spacing.
Knit 1 row. Bind off. That's all there is to it. This is exactly what was done to the edge in the photos.
This is the corresponding button band side. I knitted 1 row, transferred three evenly spaced stitches, then brought the emptied needles back to work position, knitted one more row, and bound off. This created 3 eyelets, which are large enough for buttons.
The finished placket, buttoned up. This placket works well when you don't want the size and bulk commonly seen on sweater fronts.
Updated July 18, 2016