Lollipop Cardigan

Very Detailed Beginner Tutorial
Size 6 months.
Made on an LK 150 knitting machine Also suitable for KX350 midgauge.

Materials
2 balls Ice Yarn Baby lollipop (main color) This yarn has small spots of random colors.
1 ball Ice Yarn Dora in coordinating color (contrast color)
Any yarn of approximately DK weight that will knit to the same gauge may be substituted
6 or 7 medium sized buttons, ½” or slightly larger diameter. Always make a test buttonhole and try it with the desired button.

Gauge: 22 stitches, 30 rows = 10 cm (5.5 sts, 7.5 rows = 1”) in stockinet,
24 stitches, 40 rows in 2×1 ribbing
T 5 for stockinet, T 4 for ribbing

Note: ribbing is created by dropping every 3rd stitch and latching it back up as a knit stitch on the purl background. It looks like purl 2, knit 1 on the wrong side, and knit 2, purl 1 on the right (public) side. It is frequently called 2×1 ribbing, and that is the term used in this pattern.

Back
RC 000. T 4. With contrast color, cast on 59 sts, from 30 left –29 right of center 0. Knit 10 rows. Drop and relatch 2×1 ribbing. Increase 1 stitch, on the right. (There are now 60 sts.)

RC 10. T 5. Change to main color. Knit to RC 52. Place yarn markers in both edge stitches to mark beginning of armhole.

Knit even to RC 76, ending with carriage on right.

Shoulders and Back Neck
Shoulders and back neck will be shaped at the same time, by short rows.
RC 76. Set carriage to hold. (push both Russel Levers backwards to l).
Push all needles left of center 0, plus needles 1-6 right of center 0 to pos. D (holding position).

Knit across to the left. Wrap the yarn under needle 5. (first holding needle at the neck).

On the right (shoulder) edge, bring the first 7 needles out to hold position. Knit across to the right, and wrap the yarn under the first holding needle (the one on the inside, nearest the neck).

RC 78. Bring 3 more needles into hold position on the neck edge (needles 6-8 right of 0).
Knit across to the left, wrap first holding needle. Bring 6 needles to hold position on the shoulder; knit to the right and wrap yarn under the first holding needle.

RC 80: Bring 2 more needles into hold position on the neck edge (needles 9-10). There are 6 stitches left in work position for the shoulder. Knit 1 row to the left, do not wrap first holding needle at the neck edge this time.

Push the 13 holding position needles on the shoulder edge back to position C (upper working position). Knit across to the right. All shoulder stitches should have knitted. If any did not, manually take the yarn through to make a stitch on the appropriate needle. Cut yarn, leaving approximately 3-4 times with width of the working needles. This will be used for seaming the shoulder later. Remove the 19 shoulder stitches on waste yarn.

The neck and shoulder shaping will be a mirror image of the right side. This is called “reversing the shaping”, and most patterns do not give specific instructions for it. Since this is a tutorial pattern, those instructions are included.

Place carriage on the left side of the needle bed. Reset the row counter to 76. Set carriage to hold. (push both Russel Levers backwards to l).
Push all needles right of center 0, plus needles 1-6 left of center 0 to pos. D.
Knit across to the right. Wrap the yarn under needle 5.
On the left (shoulder) edge, bring the first 7 needles out to hold position. Knit across to the left, and wrap the yarn under the first holding needle.

RC 78. Bring 3 more needles into hold position on the neck edge.
Knit across to the right, wrap first holding needle. Bring 6 needles to hold position on the shoulder; knit to the left and wrap yarn under the first holding needle.

RC 80: Bring 2 more needles into hold position on the neck edge. There are 6 stitches left in work position for the shoulder. Knit 1 row to the right, do not wrap first holding needle this time.
Push the 13 holding position needles on the shoulder edge back to position C (upper working position). Knit across to the left. Cut yarn, leaving approximately 3-4 times with width of the working needles. Remove the 19 shoulder stitches on waste yarn.

22 stitches remain for the back neck. Pick up 2 stitches on each side, 1 right next to the first holding needle, and 1 next to or actually in the first shoulder stitch. Bring Russel Levers forward to ll. (This is often called “cancel hold”) and knit 1 row over all 26 back neck stitches, then remove them on waste yarn.

Right Front

RC 000. T 4. With contrast color, cast on 29 sts, from 15 left –14 right of center 0. Knit 10 rows. Drop and relatch 2×1 ribbing. Increase 1 stitch, on the right. (There are now 30 sts.)
RC 10. T 5. Change to main color. Knit to RC 52. Place yarn markers in right edge stitch to mark beginning of armhole.

Knit even to RC 66, ending with carriage on right.

Shape Front Neck
RC 66. Set carriage to hold. Push 3 needles on the left (neck) edge into hold position. Knit across to the left; wrap yarn under needle 13 (the first holding needle on the inside neck edge). Knit to the right.
RC 68. Push 2 needles on the left into hold position. Knit across to the left, wrap first holding needle, knit to the right.
RC 70. Push 2 needles on the left into hold position. Knit across to the left, wrap first holding needle, knit to the right.
RC 72. Push 2 needles on the left into hold position. Knit across to the left, wrap first holding needle, knit to the right.
RC 74. Push 2 needles on the left into hold position. Knit across to the left, wrap first holding needle, knit to the right.
Knit even (no increases or decreases) to RC 77, ending with carriage on the left.

Shape Shoulder
RC 77. Push 7 needles on the right edge into hold position, knit 1 row to the right, wrap first holding needle, knit to the left.
RC 79. Push 6 needles on the right into hold position, knit 1 row to the right, wrap first holding needle, knit to the left. 6 stitches remain in work position.
RC 81. Push the 13 holding position needles on the shoulder edge back to upper working position. Knit across to the left on 19 shoulder stitches. Cut yarn and remove on waste yarn.

Pick up 6 sts along the side of the neck, from next to the first holding needle up to the shoulder. Knit 1 row. Remove the 17 neck sts on waste yarn.

Left Front

Knit to correspond to Right Front, reversing all shaping. This means that you must either begin knitting from the left side of the bed, or knit 1 row fewer when beginning the neck shaping. The neck short rows will be made on the right edge, when the carriage is on the left side of the bed, and the shoulder decreases will be made on the left side, when the carriage is on the right. Pick up only 5 stitches along the side of the neck from the holding needles up to the shoulder; there is 1 row less on this side, so also pick up fewer stitches. There will be 16 neck stitches to remove on this side.

Join shoulders
Hold right back, knit side facing you, purl side toward the machine. Pick up 19 shoulder stitches from waste yarn. Bring the needles forward so that the stitches slide back behind the latches. Hold right front, purl side facing you, knit side toward the machine. Pick up 19 shoulder stitches into the hooks of the same needles. Push them back through the back shoulder stitches so that only 1 stitch remains on each needle. Bind off by backstitch method. OR knit 1 row at T 9 and bind off using stitch-through-stitch method.

Join left shoulder seam the same way.

Neckband

RC 000. T 4. With contrast color, cast on 59 sts, from 30 left –29 right of center 0. Knit 8 rows. Drop and relatch 2×1 ribbing. Remove on waste yarn.

Knit side of garment facing you, purl side toward the machine, pick up 59 main color sts around the neck, taking every stitch held by waste yarn. Slide these stitches back behind the latches.
Rehang the neckband stitches into the hooks of the same needles, and pull them through so that only 1 stitch remains on each needle. T8. Knit 1 row. Bind off using stitch through stitch method.

2×1 Ribbed Button Band
On the charts below, _ equals a purl stitch; 1 equals a knit stitch

T 4. With contrast color, cast on 61 sts, from 31 left of center 0, to 30 right. Knit 8 rows, drop and relatch p1, k1 ribbing. Begin and end with 3 purl stitches. Remove on waste yarn.

_ _ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _ _

Knit side of garment facing you, purl side toward the machine, pick up 61 sts along the left center front edge (for a girl’s sweater; for a boy’s, the right front edge). Pick 5 sts in the neckband and 6 sts in the waistband. Then evenly pick up the remaining sts onto the remaining needles. This will be tight. Push the needles forward until the fabric slides back behind the latches.

Hold the band up to the machine, with the K1, P2 side facing you, the K2, P1 side facing the machine. Pick up the main color stitches from the ribbed band and hang into the hooks of the same needles, then pull them through so that only 1 stitch remains on each needle. T 8, knit 1 row. Bind off using stitch through stitch method.

2×1 Ribbed Buttonhole Band With Six 1-stitch Eyelet Buttonholes
T 4. With contrast color, cast on 61 sts, from 31 left of center 0, to 30 right. Knit 4 rows, drop and relatch p1, k1 ribbing. Begin and end with 3 purl stitches. Each bold 1indicates the buttonhole needle. After relatching the knit stitch, transfer it to the purl stitch on it’s left.

_ _ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _ _

Return the emptied needle to work position. It will knit on the next row. After all buttonholes are transferred, knit 4 rows, relatch the knit stitches, and remove on waste yarn.

2×1 Ribbed Buttonhole Band With Six 1-stitch Eyelet Buttonholes
Buttons are not usually sold in sets of seven, but sets of six are fairly common in half inch or 5/8” diameter. That is why the instructions above were included. However many people find an odd number of buttons more pleasing visually. To make a band with 7 buttonholes, cast on 61 stitches and knit 4 rows. Relatch the knit stitches; transfer the following stitches for buttonholes:

_ _ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _1_ _ _

Return the emptied needle to work position. It will knit on the next row. After all buttonholes are transferred, knit 4 rows, relatch the knit stitches, and remove on waste yarn. Join to the center front the same way as for the button band.

Sleeves

Make 2 alike.
RC 000. T 4. With contrast color, cast on 32 sts, from 16 left –16 right of center 0. Knit 10 rows. Drop and relatch K2, P1 ribbing.
RC 10. T 5. Change to main color. Knit to RC 6. Increase 1 stitch both sides on this and every following 6th row a total of 6 times. 42 stitches. Knit even to RC 52. Remove on waste yarn.

Hold garment armhole with purl side toward the machine. With the shoulder seam at center 0, pick up 42 stitches evenly from yarn marker to yarn marker. Rehang the sleeve stitches on the same needles. Pull the sleeve stitches through the armhole edge, so that only one stitch remains in each hook. T 8. Knit 1 row and bind off, using the stitch through stitch method.

Make other sleeve the same.

Finishing.
Sew seams, work in yarn ends, sew on buttons.

This is designed for a chubby baby, or to wear over layers of clothing. For a slightly narrower garment, reduce a total of 4 stitches—2 from the back, and 1 from each front. The only changes to the instructions will be to have only 18 stitches in each shoulder, instead of 19, and decrease the shoulders by placing 6 stitches into hold position every other row 3 times, rather than 7 stitches every other row once, and 6 stitches every other row twice

Lollipop Cardigan Version 2

This version has folded stockinet button and buttonhole bands, with tailored 2-stitch buttonholes. This is a surprisingly stretchy buttonhole, and will take a ¾” diameter button easily. 5 buttons are needed for this style.

Work Back and Fronts exactly the same as above and join the shoulders. Make the neckband the same and join it also.

Buttonband

Goes on the left center front edge for girl, right edge for boys
RC 000. T 4. With contrast color, ewrap cast on 49 sts, from 25 left – 24 right of center 0. Knit 8 rows. T 6. Knit 1 row. T 4. Knit 7 rows. Turn up the cast on edge and hang a hem; pick up both bars of the ewrap and hang on corresponding working needles. T 6. Knit 1 row. Remove on waste yarn. Picking up both bars of the ewrap cast on, then knitting a loose row creates an attractive ridge separating the band from the body when the band is joined to the front.

Knit side of garment facing you, purl side toward the machine, pick up 49 sts along the left center front edge. Pick 5 sts in the neckband and 6 sts in the waistband. Then evenly pick up the remaining sts onto the remaining needles. Push the needles forward until the fabric slides back behind the latches.

Hold button band up to the needle bed, with the knit side of the waste yarn facing you, purl side toward the machine. This also places the ridge at the top of the band on the side facing the machine. Pick up the main color stitches from the band and hang into the hooks of the same needles, then pull them through so that only 1 stitch remains on each needle. T 8, knit 1 row. Bind off using stitch through stitch method.

Note: a schematic for the bands is included. However, narrow strips of knitted fabric often do not have the same gauge as the rest of the garment. Button and buttonhole bands, in particular, tend to stretch.

A method that often works well, and which many people use exclusively, is to pick up 3 sts per every 4 rows for a front band.

If you are using the same yarn the pattern designer used, this should already be worked out in the pattern; but if substituting another yarn or tension, be prepared to have to experiment. Adding a band to the side edge of the gauge swatch is an excellent trial; it will tell you how many stitches are required to get the correct length for a band that spans 40 rows. You can then determine how many stitches will be needed for the band on your garment.

Buttonhole Band

There is a tutorial for the buttonhole used in this pattern here.

Be sure to practice the buttonhole technique for this lesson before beginning the band, so that you understand the concept. I prefer to mark the buttonhole stitches with separate pieces of bedspread weight crochet thread, as I find them easier to pull out of the completed band. You can use the ravel cord that came with your machine, instead. Don’t cut it into pieces; manually knit the first group of stitches, then just go on to the next group and knit them. Repeat across, and let the end of the ravel cord dangle. Place a clip on the end to help keep it down out of the way.

RC 1. Work same as for Buttonband to RC 4.

RC 4. Mark button holes. Starting from the left side, skip the first 3 sts; pull the next 2 needles out to hold position, skip 9 stitches, pull 2 stitches forward, (skip 8 stitches, pull 3 stitches forward) 3 times, skip last 3 stitches, There should be five groups of 2 needles in hold; these are the buttonhole stitches. There are 3 stitches in work on each edge. There are 8 stitches between the buttonholes, except for the first group, which has 9. Hand knit the buttonhole stitches with crochet thread or ravel cord, taking them back to position B.
Knit 4 rows.
T 6, Knit 1 row.
Tension 4, knit 3 rows.

RC 12. Complete the buttonholes. Pull forward the same needles as for RC 4. These are the buttonhole stitches. Now pull forward 1 additional needle, immediately to the left of each group of buttonhole stitches. There are now 3 stitches for each buttonhole. Be sure the stitches have gone back behind the latches.

Pick up 3 main color loops from the top edge of each buttonhole and hang on the appropriate needles. Push each group of 3 stitches back through the first set; there is now only 1 stitch on each buttonhole needle.

Important! Counting from the left side of each group of 3 stitches, left needle is number 1, middle needle is number 2, and right needle is number 3. For each buttonhole do the following:

Step 1: transfer the stitch from needle 2 to needle 3; pull the transferred stitch through the original stitch, so that there is only 1 stitch remaining in the hook.

Step 2: transfer the stitch from needle 3 to needle 2. Needle 3 is now empty, and a stitch has been bound off.

Step 3: transfer the stith from needle 1 to needle 2; pull the transferred stitch through the original stitch, so only one stitch remains in the hook.

Step 4: transfer the stitch from needle 2 back to needle 1. Needle 2 is now empty and 2 stitches have been bound off.

Step 5: To help minimize the small hole that sometimes develops next to the buttonhole itself, on the right end of the buttonhole, pick up the inner leg of the first stitch beside the marker row and hang it on needle 3 (there are now 2 loops on this needle). If you knitted each buttonhole with separate pieces of crochet thread, pull them out now. If you used ravel cord you can wait until the band is completed.

Knit 4 rows. Hang a hem from the cast on row, picking up both strands of the ewrap cast on.
Join to garment the same as for the button band.

Sleeves and finishing are the same as for version 1, above.