boot-cuff | Clearwater Knits

Boot Cuff

A PDF of this pattern is available here.

Sizes S-M and L-XL.

Made on an LK150 plastic bed knitting machine

Although boot cuffs go in and out of fashion, they actually are practical accessories. They typically consist of two parts; a section that tucks inside the boot, often made of ribbing, and a top part made with a decorative stitch that can either be folded down over the top of the boot, or pulled up the leg. The pair in this pattern can be worn either way; as shown in the photo, the lacy top part looks great pulled up over jeans or leggings. To wear with the tops turned down over the boot, turn them inside out before putting them on; when the top is turned down, the knit side will then be the public side.

These cuffs help fill in the opening at the top of the boots, prevent them from rubbing against the leg or ankle, and keep the cold air out. To make them longer, like leg warmers, simply add more rows of ribbing. You might also then knit the first 12-16 rows of ribbing at tension 2 ½ instead of 3 so that they are a little snugger around the ankle.

Materials

Approximately 4 oz sport or DK weight yarn

Gauge: 22 sts, 30 rows = 10 cm (5.5 sts, 7.5 rows = 1”)

T3 ribbing, 4 lace

Pattern Notes: The boot cuff is knitted in ribbing and lace, but since many people find it difficult to measure gauge in either ribbing or lace, make a standard gauge swatch in stockinet, just as per the instructions in the machine manual. If you are able to match this gauge, your cuffs should be fine.

Reform ribbing every 10-20 rows, dropping and relatching knit stitches. The lace pattern at the top is a 10-stitch repeat.

Instructions

The bottom ribbing is quite stretchy, and most people will be fine with one of the two sizes given; but if you do need to make one in-between sizes, add a few extra stitches to the smallest size. Just before changing to lace, knit 1 row, increase evenly to 72 sts, and work the lace cuff top exactly the same as for the L-XL size.

Cast on 62 (72) sts, set up for K1, P1 ribbing according to instructions in the machine manual.

RC000. T3. Work 40 rows ribbing, ending with carriage on right.

RC 040. T4. Work 20 rows in lace pattern. (Chart is below.)

RC060. Work garter stitch band as follows: K 2 rows, convert every stitch in last row to K. Knit 2 rows, convert every stitch in last row to K. T8, knit 1 row and bind off using stitch through stitch method.

Finishing

Sew seam. If you know how to sew one of the flatter seams, like one of those we now call a “Bickford” seam, this would be a better technique for the ribbing section. If you find this difficult, try overcasting or whip stitching the edges together. You can also use the mattress stitch method, but sew through the middle of the edge stitches (half a stitch from the edge) rather than a full stitch in from the edge as we usually do. Use mattress stitch for the lace part, since an extra stitch has been added to each side for the seam.

Work in yarn ends.

Lace Pattern

This is a simple 10-stitch, 2-row repeat, made by using the 2-prong transfer tool. 2 extra stitches are allowed for mattress stitch seaming in the cuff section. You will actually have 4 plain stitches on the left side, and 3 on the right side. The black square indicates one repeat of the pattern.