Cowl With Mock Cables

Finished size: 28” long x 10” wide

Requires one 100-gram ball aran weight yarn, with number 4 on the ball band, or any yarn that will knit stockinet to a gauge of 4 sts 6 rows = 1”. The fabric should be soft, and fairly loose, since the cowl needs to drape. If you can’t match the gauge, go for a soft, drapey fabric instead.
Tension 8 on LK 150, 9 on KX 350 or required tension to obtain gauge.
Cast on 44 sts with waste yarn and ravel cord. E-wrap cast on over ravel cord with main yarn.
Knit to RC 168. With so many cables, and so many stitches to drop, it works better to drop the
required stitches now, then knit the waste yarn.
Underlined stitches should be dropped 3-4-5-2-6-4-6-2-5-4-3
Starting from the left edge, keep first 3 sts in WP, drop the next 4 sts, keep next 5 sts in WP, drop
the next 2 sts, keep next 6 sts in WP, drop the next 4 sts, keep next 6 sts in WP, drop the next 2 sts, keep next 5 sts in WP, drop the next 4 sts, keep last 3 sts in WP. This is the set-up for 3 large mock cables, and 2 small ones.
Remove on WY.

Working on one cable at a time, ravel the required stitches all the way back to the cast on, then work the mock cable back to the top. Either continue latching the stitches back through the WY, or fasten the last loop with a large safety pin to prevent the stitches from running downwards.

A rug latch hook works best for this technique, but the latch tool from the accessory kit or a size G aluminum crochet hook can be used.

Small Cable (The One Made From Two Dropped Stitches)
Begin at the CO edge. Insert latch hook through the “run”, 2 bars up from the lower edge. Twist hook down and around to form a loop. Slide this loop back behind the latch and hold it there with forefinger. *Pick up the next 2 bars of “run”, then pull them through the loop already on hook. Slide this new loop back behind the latch and hold it there. Repeat from * to end of MC. Either continue latching back up through waste yarn, or fasten top loop with a safety pin.

Large Cable
Work as for small cable, except after making the loop at the bottom, pull 4 bars through the stitch on the hook each time.

Repeat this process for the 4 remaining cables.

Backstitch bind off after the cables are completed. This is usually better done by rehanging the live stitches back on the machine, and working the bind off while the stitches are held by the needles. There are multiple strands of yarn on the needles that hold the cables, so hang weights to help keep the fabric pulled down while sewing.

Block the completed piece. Steaming lightly will help soften a stiffer acrylic yarn, but be very careful here. Modern soft acrylics usually don’t react well to steam. Keep the iron well above the fabric. Many people find it helpful to place a towel over the fabric, then hover the iron above the covered cowl and steam. Test the blocking method on a sample before using it on the cowl.

Sew the ends together. Work in yarn ends.
Note: the 3 edge stitches have rolled under around the lower edge; they are there, just turned to
the inside.