Using Knit Contour Patterns

What They Look Like
Studio/Singer has both mechanical and electronic Knit Contour units. We will cover the mechanical units first, then the electronic ones because they are a little different. The pictures on the left show what the commercial patterns for the mechanical units look like.

The 300 series Studio knitting machines use the same Knit Contour as the optional accessory Knit Contour KR-6, while the SK 700 uses the same style as the optional accessory Knit Contour, KR-7. To make the following directions less confusing, we will refer to the Contours simply as KR-6, or KR-7.

Since the Ladies’ Round Neck Pullover is a basic style often used by most people, please select this pattern from your set to use in this lesson.

In general, if your Knit Contour uses half a pattern (looks like a sewing pattern which has the centerline placed on a fold of fabric), it is a KR-6. If it uses a full pattern (the whole back or front is shown on the pattern paper), it is a KR-7. Both units operate similarly, with a few minor differences.

Selecting The Correct Size
Please note that the pattern sizing for the KR-6 and the KR-7 are not the same. The illustrations of measurement charts are the ones on the Knit Contour patterns included with your attachment. Please check your own patterns to see which set applies.

KR-6 patterns have five sizes, A-B-C-D-E, ranging from Ladies’ bust 32 to bust 40, in even 2″ increments. KR-7 patterns have 6 sizes, A-B-C-D-E-F, in ladies’ bust 32 1/2 to 39, with 1″ to 1 1/2″ increments. See charts below for comparison. All measurements are written first in centimeters, with inches in parentheses.

Regardless of the Knit Contour used, it will be necessary to take your body measurements and compare them against the chart. Select the pattern closest to your bust measurement.

Where to Measure When Using the Commercial Knit Contour Patterns

1. Bust. Over fullest part of bust. Keep tape parallel to the floor.

2. Waist. Around natural waistline.

3. Hip. Around fullest part. Average is about 7″ below waist. If you have high hips take this measurement also. I have to alter all my patterns, since the fullest part of my hips is only 4″ below my waist; and the width measurement remains the same all the way down to 8″ below my waist. If I do not make this correction, skirts ride up and bunch around my middle–very unflattering!

4. Back Width. From shoulder point to shoulder point.

5. Length. From first vertebra (bump at base of back neck) to desired length.

6. Sleeve Length. From shoulder point, down over slightly bent elbow, to wrist.

Altering a Commercial Knit Contour Pattern

We will assume a body bust of 33 3/4″. This means that pattern size B will be used for both the KR-6 and KR-7 patterns. Compare the rest of your own personal body measurements against those shown on the size chart for your Knit contour pattern. If there is a difference of 1/2″ it is best to alter. The illustration on the left from the knitting manual shows a shoulder being widened. This is a frequently needed alteration. The body has also been lengthened. Be sure to check the length of the sleeves, too, since these are often too short.

Most people will do better to trace off the single pattern outline of the size to be knitted onto clean Knit Contour paper, which is sold as a separate item by Studio dealers. You can also trim banner paper or butcher paper that is sold in rolls to the correct width. Five or six sizes on a sheet can confuse even an experienced knitter, and it is very easy to knit the back one size, and the front another size. Also, since patterns frequently need a little alteration, it is better to trace the original onto clean paper with pencil, and make the necessary changes, rather than marking up the originals.

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This tutorial was copyrighted and uploaded to the original Clearwater Knits website in 1997. It was updated in 2017