MATERIALS REQUIRED: Mary Lue’s Schuss Plus heavy wool sportweight, about 4 oz. MC, and small amounts of contrasting colors if stripes or Fairisle trim are desired; 1/2 oz matching Liberty Plus acrylic for lining.
GAUGE: 7.5 sts, 9 rows = 1″ in Fairisle, 7.5 sts, 10.5 rows = 1″ in Stockinette
TENSION: approximately 8
T 8. Automatic CO 146 (154-162) sts with MC. K 4 rows. Change to acrylic of same weight. (Optional, but makes the band less itchy.) K 30 rows. Change to MC. K 6 rows.
Shape Earflap. Each flap is worked separately, similarly to turning a heel on a sock. Starting from R edge, place first 14 (15-17) sts into HP. Keep next 34 (36-38) sts in WP for earflap Place remaining 98 (103-107) sts into HP. Set carriage to hold. K 2 rows over 34 (36-38) WP sts. Do not wrap holding stitches. The holes help the flap fold better. *Bring 1 needle to HP on each side of flap, K 2 rows. Repeat from * until 4 sts remain in WP in center of flap. **Push 1 st back to UWP on each side of flap, K 2 rows. Repeat from ** until all 34 (36-38) sts are back in WP. Clip yarn and place these sts into HP. Place carriage on L. Starting from L edge, place first 14 (15-17) sts into HP. Keep next 34 (36-38) sts in WP. Place remaining 98 (103-107) sts into HP. Shape exactly as for R flap. When all sts are again in WP, clip yarn. Place all sts in HP and place carriage on R. This completes the lining and earflap sections.
RC 000. K 40 rows. A Fairisle band of up to 34 rows may be used on this section, beginning after RC 004. Hang hem, picking up the CO loops onto EON. T 10, K 1 row to seal hem. T 8. K even to RC 78 (84-92), adding patterns if desired. Transfer EOS to adjacent needle. T 6, K 4 rows. Take off sts onto a double strand of yarn threaded through a tapestry needle. Gather up tightly and fasten securely. Sew back seam. Top may be trimmed with a pompom or “ropes”. Please consult your knitting manual for pompom instructions.
“Ropes” are made as follows:
Ties for flaps. For each tie, cut 4 pieces of yarn 48″ long. Twist tightly. I have an upright, cone-type winder. I tape one end of the yarn bundle to the top of the plastic cone, hold the yarn with one hand, and wind with the other. When yarn is wound tightly, remove it carefully so it does not unwind. Fold in half, then allow to unwind on itself, forming a rope. Knot loose ends together. Also tie a knot in the folded end. Trim ends evenly below knots. Divide in half, and whip to flap at middle point.
Yarn may be twisted by other methods. Some yarn and weaving shops sell actual rope makers. Some people tie the end of the yarn bundle to an electric mixer beater, or hand-held drill. You can also simply twist the yarn bundle by hand. However you perform the actual twisting, always fold the twisted strands in half and allow them to unwind on themselves; this is what causes the rope to form.
Top ties. Make 2 alike. Cut 4 pieces of yarn 30″ long. Make “rope” as for flap ties. Cross ropes on top of hat, and sew securely in place across gathers.
For a very large head, it may be necessary to add another 8 sts. Divide this amount, so that there are 19 sts before and after the earflaps, and the remaining 4 in the middle of the bed.
This pattern is from the book, Knitting For Bazaars And Gifts by Irene Woods, copyright 1988, and was uploaded onto the original Clearwater Knits website in 1997